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젓갈
Korea-Hanok-Jars-Kimchi-01.jpg · by Drab Makyo · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

젓갈

Jeotgal — salted seafood

The hidden salt in kimchi and the tiny dishes that scare tourists first.

Seasoning, not a dare

젓갈 is salted, fermented seafood — shrimp, anchovy, clam. A spoon seasons a cabbage batch; a saucer on the table is for wrapping pork. The smell is loud; the use is precise. Vegan kimchi skips it and must find salt and umami elsewhere.