Exfoliants (AHA/BHA/PHA) in skincare — what they do
Chemical exfoliants loosen dead surface cells for smoother, clearer-looking skin. K-beauty tends to favour low, gentle, gradual percentages.
8 exfoliants (aha/bha/pha) in the K-beauty INCI decoder
- Citric Acid — A common acid that helps lightly exfoliate and is widely used to set a product's pH.
- Gluconolactone — A polyhydroxy acid that helps gently smooth skin while also drawing in moisture.
- Glycolic Acid — A small alpha-hydroxy acid that helps loosen dead surface cells so skin looks smoother and brighter.
- Lactobionic Acid — A large polyhydroxy acid that helps gently exfoliate and supports the skin's moisture barrier.
- Malic Acid — A fruit-derived alpha-hydroxy acid that helps loosen dead cells for a smoother surface.
- Mandelic Acid — A large, slow-acting alpha-hydroxy acid that helps gently exfoliate and is often kinder to sensitive skin.
- Salicylic Acid — An oil-soluble acid that helps clear inside pores and supports a smoother, clearer complexion.
- Tartaric Acid — A grape-derived acid that helps with gentle exfoliation and supports a balanced product pH.
Decode any ingredient list free →
Explore the full K-beauty hub →🙋 People also ask
What is the difference between AHA and BHA?
AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble and work on the skin's surface to brighten and smooth, while BHA like salicylic acid is oil-soluble and gets into pores. In Korean skincare both are used sparingly, a few times weekly, always with daily sun protection.
What is BHA and what does it do?
BHA, usually salicylic acid, is an oil-soluble exfoliant that can penetrate pores to dissolve oil and dead skin, helping refine the look of texture and blemish-prone skin. In Korean routines it's used a few times weekly, with sunscreen by day, to avoid over-exfoliating.
✍️ Written & reviewed by the KoreaPlus Editorial team — dermatologist-informed, cosmetic-science researched & source-cited. Last reviewed 2026-06-21.
General educational information using cosmetic structure-function wording — not medical advice. Always patch-test new actives. © KoreaPlus.