What is a first essence and do I need one?
A first essence is a watery, high-percentage ferment applied straight after cleansing, before anything else. It is a hydration and conditioning step. Pleasant and popular, but genuinely optional.
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The category began with SK-II's pitera and Korean brands made it affordable. Evidence for ferment filtrates is emerging rather than strong, so treat it as a nice-feeling conditioning layer.
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What is essence in Korean skincare?
Essence is a lightweight, watery Korean skincare layer applied after toner and before serum. It's designed to hydrate and prep the skin so later products absorb better. Often fermented or ingredient-rich, essence is sometimes called the heart of a Korean routine.
What is the difference between essence and serum?
In Korean skincare, essence is typically a thinner, hydration-focused layer that preps skin, while serum is more concentrated with targeted actives like vitamin C or niacinamide. Essence usually comes first; serum follows. The line between them blurs, and not every routine needs both.
Do you really need all 10 steps of Korean skincare?
No. The 10-step routine is a menu, not a requirement. Many Koreans use a simple core of cleanser, hydrating toner, moisturizer and sunscreen, adding serums, essences or masks only as their skin needs. The point is consistency and customization, not maximum steps.
Do I really need to double cleanse?
At night, if you wear sunscreen or makeup — yes. Water-based cleansers cannot break down water-resistant sunscreen, so a single cleanse leaves a film behind. In the morning, one gentle cleanse or just water is plenty.
✍️ Written & reviewed by the KoreaPlus Editorial team — dermatologist-informed, cosmetic-science researched & source-cited. Last reviewed: 2026-08-23.
General educational information using cosmetic structure-function wording — not medical advice. Always patch-test new actives. © KoreaPlus.